Having only qualified a few weeks ago, me and Will are pretty lucky to have dived at Sipadan. Relaying tales to fellow divers of turtles, sharks, and endless coral, we end up getting choruses of 'What! But you've only just qualified!.
Google a picture of Sipadan, a tiny island on the east coast of Borneo that is widely regarded as one of the best places in the world to dive. Reef sharks, white tips, turtles, corals, hundreds of different varieties of fish, everywhere at a visibility of 30 metres. A 600 metre shelf that drops down endlessly. Water so clear you can see as you would on land. Nothing else will compare.
We stayed off the coast of Semporna in a place called Singamata, basically a hotel built on stilts in the bluest of seas. It had an 'aquarium' in the middle next to the restaurant that you could dive in, with huge wrasses and lots of other fish. Our balcony opened onto the sea; Will showed off his backflips into the ocean, everyone was very impressed. For around five pounds a day we stayed in a dorm room, with meals included. Meals consisted of noodles, fish, and rice. For four days. Never thought I could suck the meat out of a fish head, but there we go, thats what a longing for western food does to one. Will struggled, had to get a boat to the mainland to get a steak.
After a few days sunning and generally not doing a lot, we booked our diving at Sipadan. Did three dives there, each one unbelievable. The currents were really strong on our first dive, so I was swimming hard, using lots of air, trying to stay neutrally buoyant. Had a problem with my bcd and couldnt get all the air out of it, so swam over to Will and pointed to my deflate button. However he misunderstood, inflated my jacket, and I shot up a few metres to the surface. Feelings of embarassment were quickly overtaken by panic- 'If I get the Bens and die, I will bloody kill Will' I muttered to myself as I spluttered to the surface. The next two dives were relatively trouble free, and were the best dives I could imagine. Managed to make our air last for a long time- Will had a safety stop and used all his air and had to borrow mine, which was a bit silly.
Anyway, stayed in Semporna for a week, then did a mammoth two night journey from the east coast of Borneo to the east coast of Malaysia, one night on a coach, one night on a train. In third class...
We have met some amazing people travelling so far, some more fun than others (a few posh spazzes)... which has made the experience just awesome.
We are now at the Perhentian Islands on the east coast of Malaysia- stayed here for a few days doing more dives, and are heading back to Thailand tomorrow...
Sunday, 30 May 2010
Monday, 24 May 2010
Sepilok Orang Utan Sanctuary
A lesbian Orang Utan show wasn't quite what we expected when we went to Sepilok sanctuary. We had heard that we would be lucky to see two or three at feeding time- but from the moment we went into the rainforest we were surrounded by curious cheeky apes. One pinched a baby bottle from a pram and suckled on it, another grabbed a Japanese tourist and made her wail. Then at the end we were treated to a bit of a show from two female Orang Utans, who went from grooming to shagging in two minutes. We couldn't step over them, and it felt wrong to watch...Finally have some time to upload photos
Friday, 21 May 2010
Palm Oil and Man of the Forest
Here in Malaysia, there is a tree that bears a fruit so rich in oil, that it is taking over the country. Like Japanese Knotweed, it spreads quickly, invasive; the lush tropical rainforests of Borneo are being taken over by a tree synonymous with paradise. Palms. Unlike weeds however, they are not spreading naturally- instead great trees, mangroves and flora are being pulled up, or burnt down, to make way for the plantations.
Thanks to the topic of environmentalism coming ever to the fore, many people are aware of the ecological problems that mass production of Palm Oil causes. We have seen the pictures of orphaned Orang Utans, watched the rainforests being burnt to pulp. Being in Borneo, even in Sabah where the problem isn't as endemic, it is disheartening to see miles and miles of palm trees sticking out of the ground in neat rows. Lorries containing Palm Oil are on every road, trucks bearing tonnes of the stuff drop fruits frequently on the uneven roads. Speak to most Malaysians out here and it seems that there is a dichotomy- economic vs environmental. The story of the earth.
Malaysia is the largest producer of Palm Oil, used in both the commercial food industry and for Bio Diesel. It's certainly big business for Malaysia, who export around 18 million tonnes of the thick red fat every year. Many people, me included, see biofuels as a positive step for the environment- a good, clean, affordable alternative to petrols. However this need for biofuels, which by the way isn't limited to South East Asia, but also to the European Union, means that demand is constantly growing- in forty years time, some predict we will be relatively reliant on palm oil. And there is some irony in the fact that many people buy biofuels because they are environmentally aware, not realising the effect production is having on the rainforests- which according to Greenpeace outweighs the use of biofuels for a green motive altogether.
There are several main reasons why the production of Palm Oil is detrimental. First the ecological reasons- burning and cutting down species of plants that cannot be found anywhere else in the world. Many rainforests lie atop peat bogs, that when disturbed omit tonnes of carbon. And then there are the social impacts of Palm Oil- true many are benifitting from exports, but also poor working conditions and low pay could possibly lead to an elite few people getting richer, rather than the country as a whole. Finally, there is the face of Palm Oil's problems, a rotund brown leathery face framed with a shock orange hair, a curious face that with its haunting brown eyes is the sole reason why people sit up and talk about palm oil. The Orang Utan could be extinct in the wild in as little as ten years.
There are four sanctuaries in the entire world, two in Malaysia, the rest in Indonesia. Sepilok is based in Sabah, near the town of Sandakan in North East Borneo. It sits on the edge of a rainforest, and has been rehabilitating orphaned or abused orang utans since the sixties. As you enter the park forest, with walkways in a small area of rainforest, you can see the magnificent apes swing through the trees grooming, eating, playing. When you look in their eyes, it is easy to envisage man's relationship with one of its closest ancestors. It can be very emotional to see them, knowing that many will never be able to do so- certainly our children and grandchildren will only read about the Orang Utan in books, perhaps even in history books.
Orang Utans are very much like humans in their breeding patterns. Females will generally have few partners, having two or three babies in their lifetime. Their offspring- no, their children, will stay with them until they are around seven years old. Which means that even now, if steps are taken to preserve the rainforest, it will be years before we see a definitive change in numbers.
Will will probably disagree with everything I have said in this blog, and to be fair to him, he has a point. Things of beauty are being destroyed everywhere on earth- who are we to step in and disagree with what Malaysia are doing. It is impossible to boycott Palm Oil, it is simply ubiquitous. Just be aware that the butter that you buy, the chocolate that you eat, and the fuel in your car may have had an impact on the rainforests here. Whether that will deter you, who knows, my shopping habits won't change much. But to hold the hand of an Orang Utan, to be able to look into its eyes, is enough to make you want to preserve the life of our little orange relatives.
www.rspo.org
http://www.palmoiltruthfoundation.com/
Thanks to the topic of environmentalism coming ever to the fore, many people are aware of the ecological problems that mass production of Palm Oil causes. We have seen the pictures of orphaned Orang Utans, watched the rainforests being burnt to pulp. Being in Borneo, even in Sabah where the problem isn't as endemic, it is disheartening to see miles and miles of palm trees sticking out of the ground in neat rows. Lorries containing Palm Oil are on every road, trucks bearing tonnes of the stuff drop fruits frequently on the uneven roads. Speak to most Malaysians out here and it seems that there is a dichotomy- economic vs environmental. The story of the earth.
Malaysia is the largest producer of Palm Oil, used in both the commercial food industry and for Bio Diesel. It's certainly big business for Malaysia, who export around 18 million tonnes of the thick red fat every year. Many people, me included, see biofuels as a positive step for the environment- a good, clean, affordable alternative to petrols. However this need for biofuels, which by the way isn't limited to South East Asia, but also to the European Union, means that demand is constantly growing- in forty years time, some predict we will be relatively reliant on palm oil. And there is some irony in the fact that many people buy biofuels because they are environmentally aware, not realising the effect production is having on the rainforests- which according to Greenpeace outweighs the use of biofuels for a green motive altogether.
There are several main reasons why the production of Palm Oil is detrimental. First the ecological reasons- burning and cutting down species of plants that cannot be found anywhere else in the world. Many rainforests lie atop peat bogs, that when disturbed omit tonnes of carbon. And then there are the social impacts of Palm Oil- true many are benifitting from exports, but also poor working conditions and low pay could possibly lead to an elite few people getting richer, rather than the country as a whole. Finally, there is the face of Palm Oil's problems, a rotund brown leathery face framed with a shock orange hair, a curious face that with its haunting brown eyes is the sole reason why people sit up and talk about palm oil. The Orang Utan could be extinct in the wild in as little as ten years.
There are four sanctuaries in the entire world, two in Malaysia, the rest in Indonesia. Sepilok is based in Sabah, near the town of Sandakan in North East Borneo. It sits on the edge of a rainforest, and has been rehabilitating orphaned or abused orang utans since the sixties. As you enter the park forest, with walkways in a small area of rainforest, you can see the magnificent apes swing through the trees grooming, eating, playing. When you look in their eyes, it is easy to envisage man's relationship with one of its closest ancestors. It can be very emotional to see them, knowing that many will never be able to do so- certainly our children and grandchildren will only read about the Orang Utan in books, perhaps even in history books.
Orang Utans are very much like humans in their breeding patterns. Females will generally have few partners, having two or three babies in their lifetime. Their offspring- no, their children, will stay with them until they are around seven years old. Which means that even now, if steps are taken to preserve the rainforest, it will be years before we see a definitive change in numbers.
Will will probably disagree with everything I have said in this blog, and to be fair to him, he has a point. Things of beauty are being destroyed everywhere on earth- who are we to step in and disagree with what Malaysia are doing. It is impossible to boycott Palm Oil, it is simply ubiquitous. Just be aware that the butter that you buy, the chocolate that you eat, and the fuel in your car may have had an impact on the rainforests here. Whether that will deter you, who knows, my shopping habits won't change much. But to hold the hand of an Orang Utan, to be able to look into its eyes, is enough to make you want to preserve the life of our little orange relatives.
www.rspo.org
http://www.palmoiltruthfoundation.com/
Tuesday, 18 May 2010
Long Post and Long Journeys
Back to the heat and bustle in Kuala Lumpur last week- we got a bus from the Cameron Highlands to the Malaysian capital, and booked a flight to Borneo. We stayed in Chinatown for two days, sucking in the culture and perusing the markets. I know now why the Malays are always sharply dressed in designer labels- they are flogged on the market for a pittance. Got myself some nice 'Ray Bans' for two quid, and Will showed off his haggling skills and got some shorts for four quid. Might even get a head start on the Christmas shopping at this rate.
After our second night at the Reggae guest house we were staying in, we took a flight to Kota Kinabalu in Borneo. We flew with Air Asia, so the flight was pretty Ryanair standard, but it was only a few hours so it was bearable. Anyway, got a taxi into the city, which lays on the coast in the north east of Borneo. It is an area famed for its lush greenery and wildlife, as well as the notoriously hard to climb Mount Kinabalu. It is the second highest mountain in south east asia- and as me and W puff mounting some of the pavements out here, we decided against climbing it.
We arrived to KK on the day of the harvest festival, so in the evening the streets were alive with music, drums, and throngs of people cheering. After a night in the city (a sleepless night I might add, the Malaysians know how to party... and stay up til 2am singing karaoke), we took a ferry to the tiny island of Mamutik.
The island is practically uninhabited, and has a tiny beach that runs down one side where there are plenty of fish. I had this wonderful, Robinson Crusoe-esque idea in my head that we could camp, and that we would meet people around a fire and have a lovely time, so I convinced Will to rent a tent. We set off down the beach, armed with our rucksacks and a tent to pitch up next to the two other tents that sat in the middle of the bay. Now, as we emptied the tent, I realised that we had no groundsheet, no tent pegs, no roll mats, and no waterproof cover. 'It's fine, we can Ray Mears it!" we told eachother, still excited about the prospect of camping.
Let me just say, camping on a tropical desert island isn't all it's cracked up to be. The people in the other tents were asleep by 7pm (sad gits, hippy types, you know). The sun went down, and we had no means to make a fire (There is the threat of fines and 3 years imprisonment for setting fire to the vegitation on the island). And then Will found a great hole in the floor, and convinced it was a tarantula, proceeded to shine a torch down it and jab it, until it became clear it was a huge crab. The insects, hard ground, and morning heat made it almost impossible to sleep for more than 20 minutes at a time.
The next morning we woke up at 6am, groggy and insistent that we were leaving. We got chatting to a guy in the next tent called Ben, who was in Will's words, a bit of a posh twat. He honestly thought he was a bit like Ray Mears, carrying around little bags of coffee and catching fish with his crude little home made fishing line. We got a bit caught up in it all, and Will hastily made his own fishing rod (plastic bottle with line wrapped round, hook on the end, weighted with a lump of coral)to catch our lunch with. After three hours, they had surprisingly caught four little fish, enough to have with a bit of rice. We left them, and went off to arrange an afternoon dive. For around 20 quid, (we haggled a bit) we did a 45 minute dive around a pyramid reef, teeming with marine life. We saw puffer fish, lion fish, box fish, and hundreds of other varieties. It was great to finally utilise our Padi knowledge, and just swim without having to do any skills underwater. It was a perfect afternoon.
However, it wasn't long before a monsoon reared its head, and any thoughts of making fire were quashed with each crack of thunder. Fearing the worst, with puddles rapidly building up in the tent, we moved over underneath the shelter, and pitched up on the concrete. We caught a glimpse of a monitor lizard after the rain stopped, and tried to tempt it out with the mornings catch. It timidly poked its head out, reached with its claw for a fish, then retreated back into a drain to eat. After a while, we got bored of waiting for it to come out, and left it.
Had another horrible nights sleep, covered in sand and damp from the rain. I woke up looking like I had some sort of fourteenth century plague- sandflies and mosquitos ravaged me in the tent, and I now have around fifty bites covering me from shoulder to ankle on my left side. People are looking in restaurants, and I am covering up as I seriously think it might be putting people off their dinner.
After our few nights 'roughing it', we headed back to the mainland and onto a bus to Sandakan, home to lush Bornean jungles and the infamous Sepilok Orang Utan Sanctuary. Now, me and W have been rating each town referring to the concentration of 7/11 corner shops, a great place to pick up a cheap lunch and bottle of water. The more 7/11s, the better the place. Sandakan has no 7/11s, in fact it doesn't seem to have a lot of anything. A few supermarkets, lots of dreary seaside flats drenched in washing, and lots of men sat on pavements smoking. Will hummed the first few bars of Ghosttown as we looked around for a place to stay. Luckily, we struck gold with a chinese guesthouse that had air con, televisions, and an alarming collection of knock off dvd's. If you have watched the League of Gentlemen on DVD, you may remember an unsightly character called Pop, a greek landlord that is far too overfamiliar with his tenants. Well we have dubbed the owner of May Fair Guest House Pop, as he pops in our room and cleans up, sits outside having his dinner, and last night came over and went 'You two, you take five dvd hmm? Choose five dvd and watch!".
After a night in the comfort of Pop's, we took a bus to Sepilok Orang Utan Sanctuary, which is deseving of it's own blog entry, to come a bit later...
After our second night at the Reggae guest house we were staying in, we took a flight to Kota Kinabalu in Borneo. We flew with Air Asia, so the flight was pretty Ryanair standard, but it was only a few hours so it was bearable. Anyway, got a taxi into the city, which lays on the coast in the north east of Borneo. It is an area famed for its lush greenery and wildlife, as well as the notoriously hard to climb Mount Kinabalu. It is the second highest mountain in south east asia- and as me and W puff mounting some of the pavements out here, we decided against climbing it.
We arrived to KK on the day of the harvest festival, so in the evening the streets were alive with music, drums, and throngs of people cheering. After a night in the city (a sleepless night I might add, the Malaysians know how to party... and stay up til 2am singing karaoke), we took a ferry to the tiny island of Mamutik.
The island is practically uninhabited, and has a tiny beach that runs down one side where there are plenty of fish. I had this wonderful, Robinson Crusoe-esque idea in my head that we could camp, and that we would meet people around a fire and have a lovely time, so I convinced Will to rent a tent. We set off down the beach, armed with our rucksacks and a tent to pitch up next to the two other tents that sat in the middle of the bay. Now, as we emptied the tent, I realised that we had no groundsheet, no tent pegs, no roll mats, and no waterproof cover. 'It's fine, we can Ray Mears it!" we told eachother, still excited about the prospect of camping.
Let me just say, camping on a tropical desert island isn't all it's cracked up to be. The people in the other tents were asleep by 7pm (sad gits, hippy types, you know). The sun went down, and we had no means to make a fire (There is the threat of fines and 3 years imprisonment for setting fire to the vegitation on the island). And then Will found a great hole in the floor, and convinced it was a tarantula, proceeded to shine a torch down it and jab it, until it became clear it was a huge crab. The insects, hard ground, and morning heat made it almost impossible to sleep for more than 20 minutes at a time.
The next morning we woke up at 6am, groggy and insistent that we were leaving. We got chatting to a guy in the next tent called Ben, who was in Will's words, a bit of a posh twat. He honestly thought he was a bit like Ray Mears, carrying around little bags of coffee and catching fish with his crude little home made fishing line. We got a bit caught up in it all, and Will hastily made his own fishing rod (plastic bottle with line wrapped round, hook on the end, weighted with a lump of coral)to catch our lunch with. After three hours, they had surprisingly caught four little fish, enough to have with a bit of rice. We left them, and went off to arrange an afternoon dive. For around 20 quid, (we haggled a bit) we did a 45 minute dive around a pyramid reef, teeming with marine life. We saw puffer fish, lion fish, box fish, and hundreds of other varieties. It was great to finally utilise our Padi knowledge, and just swim without having to do any skills underwater. It was a perfect afternoon.
However, it wasn't long before a monsoon reared its head, and any thoughts of making fire were quashed with each crack of thunder. Fearing the worst, with puddles rapidly building up in the tent, we moved over underneath the shelter, and pitched up on the concrete. We caught a glimpse of a monitor lizard after the rain stopped, and tried to tempt it out with the mornings catch. It timidly poked its head out, reached with its claw for a fish, then retreated back into a drain to eat. After a while, we got bored of waiting for it to come out, and left it.
Had another horrible nights sleep, covered in sand and damp from the rain. I woke up looking like I had some sort of fourteenth century plague- sandflies and mosquitos ravaged me in the tent, and I now have around fifty bites covering me from shoulder to ankle on my left side. People are looking in restaurants, and I am covering up as I seriously think it might be putting people off their dinner.
After our few nights 'roughing it', we headed back to the mainland and onto a bus to Sandakan, home to lush Bornean jungles and the infamous Sepilok Orang Utan Sanctuary. Now, me and W have been rating each town referring to the concentration of 7/11 corner shops, a great place to pick up a cheap lunch and bottle of water. The more 7/11s, the better the place. Sandakan has no 7/11s, in fact it doesn't seem to have a lot of anything. A few supermarkets, lots of dreary seaside flats drenched in washing, and lots of men sat on pavements smoking. Will hummed the first few bars of Ghosttown as we looked around for a place to stay. Luckily, we struck gold with a chinese guesthouse that had air con, televisions, and an alarming collection of knock off dvd's. If you have watched the League of Gentlemen on DVD, you may remember an unsightly character called Pop, a greek landlord that is far too overfamiliar with his tenants. Well we have dubbed the owner of May Fair Guest House Pop, as he pops in our room and cleans up, sits outside having his dinner, and last night came over and went 'You two, you take five dvd hmm? Choose five dvd and watch!".
After a night in the comfort of Pop's, we took a bus to Sepilok Orang Utan Sanctuary, which is deseving of it's own blog entry, to come a bit later...
Tuesday, 11 May 2010
Strawberries and cream in the Cameron Highlands
Well we are now well and truly off the Thailand tourist trail. We made it to Malaysia, finally- a minibus dropped us off at the border. Clutching our passports, and with no Malaysian Ringits, we set off in taxis and local buses, arriving to the island of Penang late afternoon. My first impression of Malaysia is how modern everything seems in comparison to Thailand. No more straw shacks, think high rise buildings, new cars, and excellent roads. We hopped off the ferry and stayed in Georgetown for a night- a city unremarkable in itself, but as a hop off for Malaysia was great.
There is a real mix of ethnicities in Malaysia; Indians, Chinese, and Malays battle it out in the restaurants- and seemingly everyone speaks English. Beers and alcohol are more expensive here, possibly to do with the fact that 95% of the population are muslim. Had a few curries since we have been here- Fresh Naans and proper thick curries- yum!
Anyway, after a night in Georgetown we set off for the Cameron Highlands. Some 6 thousand feet above sea level, we have gone from searing humidity to chilly evenings. The evidence of British colonialism is apparent- Golf courses and 'high tea' served after 4pm are popular everywhere.
This region grows 40% of Malaysia's fresh produce, particularly strawberries- local strawberry jam is excellent. Today we went on a tour around the highlands, starting at a Rose Garden (Terribly British, but unfortunately also terribly boring). We then headed to a tea plantation- rows and rows of tea bushes as far as the eye can see. We went to the factory, saw how it was made, and even tasted a cup of the Boh Tea.
Finally we went to a 'Butterfly and Insect Farm'- Basically a mesh room of enormous butterflies, and all manner of creepy crawlies in vivariums- We saw giant scorpions, and held enormous dung beetles.
Not sure where we are going next, possibly Taman Negara national park, maybe Borneo- we have yet to decide.
There is a real mix of ethnicities in Malaysia; Indians, Chinese, and Malays battle it out in the restaurants- and seemingly everyone speaks English. Beers and alcohol are more expensive here, possibly to do with the fact that 95% of the population are muslim. Had a few curries since we have been here- Fresh Naans and proper thick curries- yum!
Anyway, after a night in Georgetown we set off for the Cameron Highlands. Some 6 thousand feet above sea level, we have gone from searing humidity to chilly evenings. The evidence of British colonialism is apparent- Golf courses and 'high tea' served after 4pm are popular everywhere.
This region grows 40% of Malaysia's fresh produce, particularly strawberries- local strawberry jam is excellent. Today we went on a tour around the highlands, starting at a Rose Garden (Terribly British, but unfortunately also terribly boring). We then headed to a tea plantation- rows and rows of tea bushes as far as the eye can see. We went to the factory, saw how it was made, and even tasted a cup of the Boh Tea.
Finally we went to a 'Butterfly and Insect Farm'- Basically a mesh room of enormous butterflies, and all manner of creepy crawlies in vivariums- We saw giant scorpions, and held enormous dung beetles.
Not sure where we are going next, possibly Taman Negara national park, maybe Borneo- we have yet to decide.
Saturday, 8 May 2010
Malaysia- Not!
Thai's are known for their scamming ways. Tuk Tuk drivers will offer free rides, then pop you off to a suit/gem shop and pressure you until you buy. Touts hawk you to buy their wares/stay in their guesthouses/buy their travel tickets 'Is good price, same same!". Well, I fear we have been travel scammed.
We set off for Malaysia this morning after a late night; sleepily hopping onto a ferry then a minibus. There were ten of us crammed into a supposedly 'air conditioned luxury minibus'- in reality barely cool air circulated around the vehicle; we were tired, sweaty, cranky, and unhappy. It's fine, I reassured myself. Tonight we will enjoy a cold beer in Penang, take in the city of Georgetown, relax and go for a bite. Well it's NOT SO!
We are still in Thailand, albeit in a more southern region than we set off this morning. We reached Hat Yai, the nearest large city before the border crossing. 'PENANG! PENANG'!, our driver called. Lovely, here we go, we will get onto a big bus and get taken down to Malaysia in comfort. Oh no, of course not, because its Thailand and nothing is simple and easy is it.
We were taken into a tourist office, and told by our guides that there was some sort of commotion at the border crossing. A protest. 'Shit. Is it the redshirts?' 'Noh'. 'The Muslims?' I asked? 'Noh. There is a protest by travel companies, the transport. Border closed. Many vans, 20, wait. May be okay tomorrow though. We take you now to nice guesthouse'. Hmm, well none of this really rang true in my head. The people we were on the minibus with seemed to carry on their journey, only four of us, the ones going to Penang, were told about this trouble. With hesitation, we got into a car and were taken to a guesthouse about two blocks away.
'You stay here one nigh'. Tomorrow I come, I call maybe 9 o clock in morning, if all is okay, we go'.
'Right. Jolly Good'.
Now what was running through my mind now was that the tour company was in cahoots with the guesthouse. After all they dropped us here, in this big city, obviously not knowing our way around.
'They are gonna charge us a lot Will... I'm not sure about it'. Well I was wrong, its only 200 baht a night for a double room with ensuite. Which is roughly four pounds. So no scam there then, surely?
The room however, is akin to a crack den. Long fluorescent corridors lead to wooden bolted doors, giving off an aura of a prison. There is a big double bed, but the springs have unearthed themselves from the cotton and poke upwards. The less said about the toilet the better- it is a hole in the floor with a bucket next to it.
'How...how do I... do it? God I wish the Thai people would learn how to enjoy a nice poo. It doesn't have to be this big, uncomfortable squatting affair' Will muttered.
Anyway, time will tell as to how this will turn out. Worse case scenario, we have lost a tenner and have been dumped here by a phony tour company, never to be seen again. Or perhaps they will turn up tomorrow, apologetic for the delay. All I know is after asking around at the train station and several other travel shops, there are no riots, no protests on the borders. And the Thai ticket sellers have made themselves forty quid richer, as well as a bit of commision from the guesthouse where I type this now...
We set off for Malaysia this morning after a late night; sleepily hopping onto a ferry then a minibus. There were ten of us crammed into a supposedly 'air conditioned luxury minibus'- in reality barely cool air circulated around the vehicle; we were tired, sweaty, cranky, and unhappy. It's fine, I reassured myself. Tonight we will enjoy a cold beer in Penang, take in the city of Georgetown, relax and go for a bite. Well it's NOT SO!
We are still in Thailand, albeit in a more southern region than we set off this morning. We reached Hat Yai, the nearest large city before the border crossing. 'PENANG! PENANG'!, our driver called. Lovely, here we go, we will get onto a big bus and get taken down to Malaysia in comfort. Oh no, of course not, because its Thailand and nothing is simple and easy is it.
We were taken into a tourist office, and told by our guides that there was some sort of commotion at the border crossing. A protest. 'Shit. Is it the redshirts?' 'Noh'. 'The Muslims?' I asked? 'Noh. There is a protest by travel companies, the transport. Border closed. Many vans, 20, wait. May be okay tomorrow though. We take you now to nice guesthouse'. Hmm, well none of this really rang true in my head. The people we were on the minibus with seemed to carry on their journey, only four of us, the ones going to Penang, were told about this trouble. With hesitation, we got into a car and were taken to a guesthouse about two blocks away.
'You stay here one nigh'. Tomorrow I come, I call maybe 9 o clock in morning, if all is okay, we go'.
'Right. Jolly Good'.
Now what was running through my mind now was that the tour company was in cahoots with the guesthouse. After all they dropped us here, in this big city, obviously not knowing our way around.
'They are gonna charge us a lot Will... I'm not sure about it'. Well I was wrong, its only 200 baht a night for a double room with ensuite. Which is roughly four pounds. So no scam there then, surely?
The room however, is akin to a crack den. Long fluorescent corridors lead to wooden bolted doors, giving off an aura of a prison. There is a big double bed, but the springs have unearthed themselves from the cotton and poke upwards. The less said about the toilet the better- it is a hole in the floor with a bucket next to it.
'How...how do I... do it? God I wish the Thai people would learn how to enjoy a nice poo. It doesn't have to be this big, uncomfortable squatting affair' Will muttered.
Anyway, time will tell as to how this will turn out. Worse case scenario, we have lost a tenner and have been dumped here by a phony tour company, never to be seen again. Or perhaps they will turn up tomorrow, apologetic for the delay. All I know is after asking around at the train station and several other travel shops, there are no riots, no protests on the borders. And the Thai ticket sellers have made themselves forty quid richer, as well as a bit of commision from the guesthouse where I type this now...
Friday, 7 May 2010
Shark Swims and Cliff Jumps
We have spent the past few days on Phi Phi island, a place I have been to before but nevertheless came back to, drawn by its emerald clear sea's and sweeping white bays. Have been out of action for the past few days, 'tummy troubles' had me bedridden most of yesterday, but I think secretly Will was happy to have a day in bed curled up reading. This morning we climbed up to one of the highest points on the island to take in the view of the magnificent bay- a climb that I swore I would not do again. Hundreds of steps, afternoon sun- not a pretty picture. But the end result was worth it (just).
We went out on an excursion this afternoon, first stopping at monkey bay to cavort with some alarmingly tame apes for a few minutes- feeding them bits of fruit etc. Then we went cliff jumping...
Those who know me well might know that jumping off high stuff isn't something I relish. Nevertheless, I donned a pair of rubber shoes and haphazardly climbed the side of the cliff. That was bloody hard work, but when we got to the top I got a bit panicked (think tears and shaking...). The sad thing is, and I am sure you will laugh, it was only 8 metres high. Anyway, Will was first off, and after much deliberation I climbed down to two metres and daintily launched myself off the tiny drop, feeling more than a bit pathetic.
Next we went for a snorkel, and swam above some breathtaking coral reef, bright almost fluorescent colours that were clear as anything in the sea. We swam with some black tip reef sharks (only babies, a few feet long at the most), but still it was humbling to see them snaking through the ocean, tiny predators.
Late in the afternoon we stopped at Maya Bay, the setting for the Beach. When I came here previously the tide was out and it was packed- not even postcard worthy. Yet today, framed with clear blue skies, it was stunning. We stayed for an hour or so, taking it all in, and we had a chang beer and a quick game of footie with the locals before coming back.
Tonight we are heading out for our last big night before we go to Malaysia, we went out for a few drinks last night and watched some Thai boxing. Will was adamant that after a few drinks, he could 'have a go'. We will see how that goes tonight...
We went out on an excursion this afternoon, first stopping at monkey bay to cavort with some alarmingly tame apes for a few minutes- feeding them bits of fruit etc. Then we went cliff jumping...
Those who know me well might know that jumping off high stuff isn't something I relish. Nevertheless, I donned a pair of rubber shoes and haphazardly climbed the side of the cliff. That was bloody hard work, but when we got to the top I got a bit panicked (think tears and shaking...). The sad thing is, and I am sure you will laugh, it was only 8 metres high. Anyway, Will was first off, and after much deliberation I climbed down to two metres and daintily launched myself off the tiny drop, feeling more than a bit pathetic.
Next we went for a snorkel, and swam above some breathtaking coral reef, bright almost fluorescent colours that were clear as anything in the sea. We swam with some black tip reef sharks (only babies, a few feet long at the most), but still it was humbling to see them snaking through the ocean, tiny predators.
Late in the afternoon we stopped at Maya Bay, the setting for the Beach. When I came here previously the tide was out and it was packed- not even postcard worthy. Yet today, framed with clear blue skies, it was stunning. We stayed for an hour or so, taking it all in, and we had a chang beer and a quick game of footie with the locals before coming back.
Tonight we are heading out for our last big night before we go to Malaysia, we went out for a few drinks last night and watched some Thai boxing. Will was adamant that after a few drinks, he could 'have a go'. We will see how that goes tonight...
Tuesday, 4 May 2010
Railay Beach- Koh Phi Phi
The past few days have been a time in mourning. My beatiful new Canon camera has died, and I am hoping I can find a nifty Thai man with a screwdriver to help resuscitate it. It's last few moments were spent recording me and Will cavorting on a remote island in Krabi. It met it's fate falling headfirst into the sand...
As a result, I have no pictures of Railay and Phi Phi, truly two of the most beautiful places in the world. We travelled on an overnight ferry, packed in like slaves to the mainland from Koh Tao. Will was being cocky and arrogant because he had a spare bed next to him, allowing him to stretch out unlike the rest of us sardines. Then the grossest chubby American came and sat down next to him, baring his arm pits and forcing those withing a ten foot radius to smell his putrid odour. Put me right off my dinner that did.
Anyway, after a night of travelling, we finally reached Railay beach. Have a google of it, go on. I bet it will bring up the most beautiful pics of limestone cliffs and deep blue sea. It is a climbers paradise, and on our second day me and Will attempted a trip to the lagoon. What we failed to realise however, is that the lagoon is situated inside an ancient volcano structure. And there are nothing but a few ropes tied onto trees to save you from a broken spine. After reaching the summit, we 'pressed on to Moscow' (I was shaking, not a fan of heights, especially not with the knowledge that we were in a f*****g volcano thing), and didn't quite reach the lagoon at the bottom (you have to shimmy up the ropes holding your own weight, that wasn't gonna happen). But I am told by Will that it was beautiful. The whole of Railay seemed like the set of Jurassic Park, weird sqawks every now and then, and trees that you could live in, all framed inside a lush canopy.
The next night we went for a curry on the beach, did a bit of snorkelling, and had a night swim with the phosphorence, which was amazing.
We got to Phi Phi yesterday and are relishing the comparative civilisation- There is a 7/11 shop here! Went out last night, watched a fire show and had a few buckets. For those who are unfamiliar with the bucket concept- imagine a child's pail half filled with vodka, and topped up with coke and ice. They were giving them out for free at a bar we went to yesterday, accompanied by free shots for those brave enough to face the giant fiery skipping rope. Naturally Will was up first, and rocked it- I did the fire limbo, jumped through a ring of fire, and as we got more pissed, had the balls to jump through the ring on Will's back. Covered in scratches and bruises today, but all was worth it. I think our plan is just to stay here until we cannot bear anymore buckets, then either bus down to Malaysia, or take in the quiet island that is Koh Lanta.
As a result, I have no pictures of Railay and Phi Phi, truly two of the most beautiful places in the world. We travelled on an overnight ferry, packed in like slaves to the mainland from Koh Tao. Will was being cocky and arrogant because he had a spare bed next to him, allowing him to stretch out unlike the rest of us sardines. Then the grossest chubby American came and sat down next to him, baring his arm pits and forcing those withing a ten foot radius to smell his putrid odour. Put me right off my dinner that did.
Anyway, after a night of travelling, we finally reached Railay beach. Have a google of it, go on. I bet it will bring up the most beautiful pics of limestone cliffs and deep blue sea. It is a climbers paradise, and on our second day me and Will attempted a trip to the lagoon. What we failed to realise however, is that the lagoon is situated inside an ancient volcano structure. And there are nothing but a few ropes tied onto trees to save you from a broken spine. After reaching the summit, we 'pressed on to Moscow' (I was shaking, not a fan of heights, especially not with the knowledge that we were in a f*****g volcano thing), and didn't quite reach the lagoon at the bottom (you have to shimmy up the ropes holding your own weight, that wasn't gonna happen). But I am told by Will that it was beautiful. The whole of Railay seemed like the set of Jurassic Park, weird sqawks every now and then, and trees that you could live in, all framed inside a lush canopy.
The next night we went for a curry on the beach, did a bit of snorkelling, and had a night swim with the phosphorence, which was amazing.
We got to Phi Phi yesterday and are relishing the comparative civilisation- There is a 7/11 shop here! Went out last night, watched a fire show and had a few buckets. For those who are unfamiliar with the bucket concept- imagine a child's pail half filled with vodka, and topped up with coke and ice. They were giving them out for free at a bar we went to yesterday, accompanied by free shots for those brave enough to face the giant fiery skipping rope. Naturally Will was up first, and rocked it- I did the fire limbo, jumped through a ring of fire, and as we got more pissed, had the balls to jump through the ring on Will's back. Covered in scratches and bruises today, but all was worth it. I think our plan is just to stay here until we cannot bear anymore buckets, then either bus down to Malaysia, or take in the quiet island that is Koh Lanta.
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